"The rise of the heritage trend in the menswear
industry over the past few years has been documented at length and can
be seen on just about every street corner — raw denim, faded tees,
camouflage and military-inspired garb have become the norm for many. At
the forefront of the “heritage revival” has been the reintroduction of
chambray as a staple fabric. Beloved for its denim-like look in a
lightweight, breathable form, chambray has graced everything from
shirting, outerwear and trousers to accessories like handkerchiefs,
pocket squares, scarves and ties – even footwear. The recent surge in
the fabric’s popularity can likely be traced back to its very roots.
Originating in 16th century Cambrai near the Belgian border, chambray
basically exists as a lightweight alternative to southern France’s
denim. While both fabrics are typically constructed using a white weft
and colored — typically blue — warp, denim sees the weft passed under
two or more warp threads. Chambray, on the other hand, features a 1 x 1
fabric structure as the warp and weft cross equally. As such, finished
denim features a “right” and “wrong” side with the exterior fabric
exhibiting most of the warp’s thread while the interior appears
predominately white with the weft. The result is a softer, more
versatile fabric fit for countless applications.
While denim is typically relegated to jeans, work shirts and
outerwear, chambray has been employed on a much larger scale over the
centuries. Upon introduction, it became the preferred ecclesiastical
wear for the likes of bishops and clergymen thanks to its lightweight,
breathable qualities. For the same reasons, the French found that the
fabric could be applied to anything that typically utilized linen, thus
resulting in chambray bedding, tablecloths, handkerchiefs, and even
infant wear and undergarments. Although not quite as strong as denim,
chambray’s structure allows for a ruggedness that falls somewhere
between that of denim and linen. As a result, linen shirting of the
16th, 17th, 18th and 19th centuries can often be seen with chambray
collars, cuffs and frills for added durability.
These rugged qualities are what led to chambray’s adoption by the
U.S. military at the turn of the 20th century. Changes to U.S. Navy
regulations in 1901 authorized the issue of chambray shirts and denim
trousers while another change in 1914 extended the outfit to both
officers and enlisted sailors – a look that endured through World War II
and was donned primarily as a utility uniform.
Fast forward to present and chambray can be found at the forefront of
just about every heritage-inspired line on the market. Thanks to its
military heritage, versatility and lightweight yet rugged qualities, the
fabric is a hallmark of both spring/summer and fall/winter collection,
appearing predominately on shirting from the likes of WTAPS, A Bathing
Ape, OriginalFake, Chimala, NEIGHBORHOOD, Supreme, J.Crew and more.
Brands like Converse, Vans and Nike have all applied chambray to iconic
footwear silhouettes like the Chuck Taylor All Star, Era, Half Cab and
Air Force 1 while the fabric has been adopted for outerwear designs from
Wings + Horns, Woolrich, Opening Ceremony and Levi’s. Others like
Apolis Activism have produced chambray swim trunks while labels like
Maiden Noir have introduced bandanas and countless other accessories
including bags, caps, scarves, pocket squares – the list goes on.
Present day also sees many labels experimenting with various colorways
of the chambray textile.
If trends for Spring/Summer 2013 are any indication, chambray will
continue to make its mark on menswear for seasons to come – upcoming
collections from J.Crew, White Mountaineering, Ovadia & Sons, J.
Press, Mark McNairy and FACTOTUM all feature chambray pieces.
Photography: Hypebeast" - Hypebeast
via
Hypebeast
